ARGENTINA

It seems my spontaneous trips are getting more exciting all the time! But this one is going to be hard to beat. My old friend from high school, Duc Pham, decided about a year ago to become an airline attendant in order to benefit from all the free flying and travel he could do with it. Turns out he's not the only one getting the benefits. He gets some discount vouchers every year and he offered to let me use some for a weekend trip before they expired. My friend Heathyr and I were thinking a cold weekend trip to Chicago for some pizza and art sounded good, but then Duc decided he wanted to go to South America instead and invited me to come along. I thought about it... considered it for 2 days... cleared it with my parents... canceled the bookclub party that was going to be at my house... packed my bags full of skirts and sandals and before I knew it I was in Buenos Aires, Argentina.
We hooked up with a couple of German backpackers in the airport and shared a taxi to a hotel. They actually found us while we were sitting in the airport looking through guide books for a hostel. They benefited from Duc's Spanish in bargaining a taxi price and then we followed them to a hotel they were going to stay at for one night and we ended up staying there the whole time. It was a in San Telmo on Bolivar. My room was on the third floor at the top of a winding staircase. It had a single light bulb hanging from the ceiling and a balcony with floor to ceiling shutters looking over the street next to my bed. There were old creaky wood floors, antique tiles and vintage glass windows, a terrace on the roof overlooking the city (and someones laundry), and the shared bathroom across the hall had a dozen layers of peeling paint and plaster in every shade of blue and yellow along with a bidet and a shower head sticking out of the wall. Most the places are converted old homes and have courtyards and terraces and rooms winding every which way so it was a lot bigger than it looks in the picture. I loved that hotel. It was practically a luxury hotel for $12 a night. 

(my room is the top left in this picture. Duc took a cool picture of me reading a map on my bed in front of the shutters. I think it's on facebook. )
(This is the view of the city off the back roof of our hotel)
Some of the old vintage glass windows in the hotel and below is the staircase up to my room and the wall in the bathroom.

Every morning I'd take a walk while Duc took his time getting ready. I'd wander around and then try and find my way back. Luckily I did everytime, but I found some cool parks and antique markets that way.
Then we'd start our day with empanadas and dulce de leche pastries from one of the two bakeries on our street and plan out what we wanted to see that day. 
Sometimes we wandered around taking pictures of all the murals and graffiti. Some of it is done by real artists and is really cool and some is just gang graffiti but it was all neat. It's funny what they name their gangs there, especially when they pick something American... like Los Waffles. Cracked me up every time I saw it. 


We shopped at the ferias (street markets) buying shoes (see the very first pictures for my sandals I got), antiques, jewelry, and other souvenirs. 
We visited some churches, saw some statues, and famous buildings and bridges...
Then we'd start our day with empanadas and dulce de leche pastries from one of the two bakeries on our street and plan out what we wanted to see that day. 
Sometimes we wandered around taking pictures of all the murals and graffiti. Some of it is done by real artists and is really cool and some is just gang graffiti but it was all neat. It's funny what they name their gangs there, especially when they pick something American... like Los Waffles. Cracked me up every time I saw it. 


We shopped at the ferias (street markets) buying shoes (see the very first pictures for my sandals I got), antiques, jewelry, and other souvenirs. 
We visited some churches, saw some statues, and famous buildings and bridges...

(Don't cry for me Argentina....)

We visited every part of the city including colorful Boca.

We made due with some crappy internet cafes till we found that if you buy something at McDonald's you get 20 minutes of internet free on the only good computers in the whole city. McFiestas and McNificas it was! The only difference from what I could tell was they toasted their buns over there.
We went geocaching and almost got run over by an old out of control car but got the cache...
We watched some amazing authentic Argentine Tango complete with the Buenos Aires Symphonic Orchestra... as well as some authentic goucho dancing with the smaller group of musicians. This video is long. I had a shorter one of them doing a faster tango but this one was so much better. It picks up a little at the end and I apologize for Duc's camera shutter sounds during the whole thing.

We made due with some crappy internet cafes till we found that if you buy something at McDonald's you get 20 minutes of internet free on the only good computers in the whole city. McFiestas and McNificas it was! The only difference from what I could tell was they toasted their buns over there.
We went geocaching and almost got run over by an old out of control car but got the cache...
We watched some amazing authentic Argentine Tango complete with the Buenos Aires Symphonic Orchestra... as well as some authentic goucho dancing with the smaller group of musicians. This video is long. I had a shorter one of them doing a faster tango but this one was so much better. It picks up a little at the end and I apologize for Duc's camera shutter sounds during the whole thing.
We walked a LOT till we found out we could catch the bus that stopped a block from our hotel and it only cost us about a quarter.
One day I got to choose everything we did so we took the coastal train north and spent a day in Tigre where we hired a little boat and had Sergio drive us all over the delta and through the jungle. He made an attempt to teach us how to waterski. I didn't do so well with antique waterskis and pantomimed directions in Spanish but I still tried. See my New Years Resolution post for a video of me not waterskiing...
(Everything in Tigre is on water since it's on the delta so these are their taxis.)
(and these are people's front porches onto the water)

He did manage to show us how to successfully walk on water. It was awesome.
We went to the last Boca Juniors Football game of the season and had a fantastic and very authentic South American soccer experience all while fearing for our lives the entire time.
(This was the day before the game. There's no way I'd have a camera at that place on game day. Plus there'd have been riot police and mobs everywhere if it was game day)
And then we ate! I think we took pictures of almost all our food. Duc has most the pictures of food and there was a lot of it! Pastries, cookies, pastas, liquado, pizza, fresh squeezed orange juice, churros with hot cocoa, ice cream, empanadas, sandwiches, meranges, and MEAT!

(This thing stopped me in my tracks when I saw it in the window. It was almost as big as my head and I still dream about it and wake up chewing on my pillows...)


(I even ate... raw meat. Yes it's true I ate raw meat in South America but look at it, doesn't it look good?? I figured I'd already drank a few gallons of river water that day in my water skiing attempts so how much worse could it get. I myself am shocked I didn't come home with a parasite or something but I didn't. Though I admit I liked the cooked meat better)
We did lots of other stuff but this is the gist of it.
Oh yeah and I saw the temple from the taxi window on the way to the airport before flying home first class. Till you've been in first class you have no idea what you're missing.... Five course meal, slippers, movies, massage chair that lays down completely flat, real blankets, fresh orange juice when you board and a fruit plate just before you land...I could go on. Flying will never be the same for me now. It was just the kind of relaxation I needed right before finding out upon landing that my house had been robbed.



It looks a little different than this by the time you eat it. (Seriously though you should all try it, I'm in love with this cake. I got the recipe from the
"What have I done?!?!" I thought as I began boiling a second box of
This picture is about half of how much food I made. Maybe I should be running a food bank or get a job as a cafeteria lunch lady or something... It's a good thing I like my own cooking because I sure end up with leftovers a lot. (and I didn't even mention the enchiladas I made the next day. They're filling up the other half of the freezer that isn't full of 
It was a great little hike for the second day of spring and we got some amazing panoramic views of the entire Salt Lake valley from North to South.
We were up there as the first winds started arriving with the storm that showed up the next day. It was great to get out with new people, to a new spot, and enjoy more of this great state we live in.
So thanks to Gina and Maria for the hike and hopefully some others will come along next time... next time.... that's tomorrow! We're going climbing at the climbing gym! YES!
All my usual concert partners are either out of town that weekend or don't care to see her. So anyone one else want to go with me? Anyone at all? Don't say you'll come if you'll want to leave early or complain about standing up. It's at a new small concert venue that's opening up this April on State Street so I have no idea what it's going to be like there. I've heard Brandi Carlile is great in person so please someone say you'll come with me! I don't mind going alone if I have to, but I'd rather not at a venue like this. I've thought about doing what I normally do, that is buy two tickets and find someone to use the second one after I get it, but I'm not sure I could find someone to come with me to this concert so I'm going to wait.
I'm even starting to slowly acquire my own climbing gear although Jake has so much I hardly need to.
As a Christmas bonus from work they gave all the 5 year employees $100 to REI. I finally found something to spend it on. Yeah for my own climbing shoes! Now I don't have to waste 4 bucks at the gym every time just to worry about getting athletes foot.
The only problem with new climbing shoes is you have to wear them in...the fit and the color. Mine are red which means now my feet are tye-dyed red as well. This picture really doesn't do them justice.
This is my exclusive custom made chalk bag which Jake made for me. Very impressive domestic skills if you ask me. Here is Bentley demonstrating the improper and proper way to chalk up.


So my brother is an optometrist and on Thursdays he goes out to his mini practice in
I thought all of this was especially exciting since I have a special place in my heart for the eyeball. I was never much interested in science until that day in Mr. Miller's 7
I've loved science ever since and it's been one of the foundations of almost every life decision I've made in my adult life. I've always partially credited that cow's eye for setting it off, so yeah, getting to play on Andy's eye equipment for a few minutes was really fun for me.
While Dr.
(Having just been to see Andy, I was even responsible and wore my sunglasses!) Then we went back and met Andy for a nice lunch at Denise's. 
When I was living in Monterey all the students would go have big bonfires on the beach once in awhile and this one guy Blake had so many poems memorized he was always telling a different one around the fire or in class and I was so impressed. Especially when one night around the fire he told the entire Cremation of Sam McGee. So one of my New Years resolutions this year it to memorize one of my favorite poems. I have 4 favorites in no particular order:














It was being driven by 3 crack heads. One had just been released from prison for car theft, one was a platinum blond girl with track marks up both arms, and there was some other Mexican guy. It had gone over a snow bank, over a cement piling, and into a tree. A month later when it was lifted up at the mechanics we found a rather large branch about 4 inches in diameter and 6 feet long still wedged underneath. The car reeked of cigarettes and both bumpers were dangling off the ends. You can see in the photo the patch of ground without snow...that's where the car drug the cement piling underneath is across the dirt. Bryan came by and yelled some obscenities at the people in the cop cars and totally embarrassed me in front of all the cops. Then the tow truck came, a big burly woman who reminded me of Large Marge and took the car away.
I went through the stuff found inside and even read a couple of the letters in one of their overnight bags. They were addressed to and from a prison address and gave me a good laugh and made me appreciate the life I have. One guy is getting charged with possession of a stolen vehicle. His name is Cleat. I repeat his name is CLEAT! All I can think of is Cleatus the Slack Jawed Yokel from The Simpsons.
My car is getting fixed. About $8000 worth of work, almost all cosmetic and I'll have it in a week from now. I love insurance. I can't wait to get my car back and drive safely around in the snow again. I've really missed it with all these snow storms. While looking at the car with the mechanic and the claims adjuster I think they caught me actually petting the car...kind of embarrassing. Till then thanks to Nate and Carrie...and her late grandmother I'm driving a sweet Sundance. Yeah, it's awesome. It's beige with Oregon plates and a baby seat. You really can't get any cooler than that to be honest.
Now if only I could find some of the other stuff they stole from the house...
(Which reminds me, don't bother asking me questions like "are they the ones who robbed your house? Did they compare fingerprints? What did the police say?" The answer to all of that is- I don't know. )
